It might also have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and collagen boosting abilities. Third, ATIP seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. It’s a general term for the first skincare liquid you apply after washing your … Orange peel contains less of it than some other citruses (like bergamot or lime), but still, be careful with it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. Under the Hood. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. I finished using the entire box of Rohto Melano CC Essence Face Masks on 18 August (I know this review is overdue) and the results were terrific. Other than that, citrus peel also contains the problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them mildly phototoxic. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. Quasi-Drug (医薬部外品) Mentholatum Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence is a Japanese beauty serum to treat hyperpigmentation and acne. Find out if the Rohto Mentholatum Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence is good for you! It also contains something they call ‘Deep Penetration Technology’, which also allows the gel to quickly absorb into the skin without leaving a sticky or greasy residue. A traditional East Asian medicine that has a couple of recent studies to back up its positive effects on the skin. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. Melano CC is an oil-based serum. Ingredients Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Methyparaben, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Hydroxide, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract Support SkinCarisma by shopping from our trusted partnered retailers below. It seems to have potent anti-inflammatory activity, it's a mild antioxidant and also has strong anti-bacterial effect for acne causing bacteria, Propionibacterium acne. If it were a person, we’d say, it’s agile, diligent & multifunctional. But, citrus fruits are chemically complex mixtures with a bunch of other active components such as vitamin C, flavonoids, phenolics, carbohydrates and essential oil (this latter one coming from the rind of the fruit, but still present in some amount in the fruit extract). It does smell nice but the problem is that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. what's the deal with alcohol in skincare products at alcohol denat. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. A mildly viscous, amber-colored liquid with fatty odor, made from Castor Oil and polyethylene glycol (PEG). Choose your preferred country & currency below to personalize your experience. Just like orange fruit, lemon fruit also contains citric acid so it is commonly used as a natural, mild exfoliating agent. It's a non-essential amino acid (meaning that our body can synthesize it) and serves as a water-binding ingredient. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). The essential oil coming from the rind of the orange. Step 2: Hydrate and Brighten Skin with the Melano CC Vit. Made with from around the world. The essential oil coming from the rind of the orange (the sweet one). It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners). It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. is drying. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. In general, amino acids are great skincare ingredients that play an important role in proper skin hydration but there is not much info out there about what specifically serine can do for the skin. The key ingredient used in the Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence is Vitamin C in the L-Ascorbic Acid form. Simple alcohol that's a great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent, and antimicrobial. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. Quasi-Drug (医薬部外品) Melano CC Anti-Spot White Lotion Rich (also known as Melano CC Vitamin C Whitening Lotion Rich) is a hydrating Japanese watery lotion that targets excess pigmentation. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). Works in synergy with Vitamin C. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. If your skin is sensitive, be careful with citrus extracts. Spotted a bug? Simply alcohol refers to ethanol and it's a pretty controversial ingredient. See the list below for details. The essential oil coming from the fruit (probably the rind) of the bergamot orange. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. Melano CC products are formulated to be at their most effective to lighten acne marks, fight dark spots and minimize pores. A clear, colorless liquid that works as a solvent and viscosity decreasing ingredient. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits. If this is the case, it is usually combined with other AHA containing fruit extracts such as bilberry, sugar cane, orange, and sugar maple in a super popular ingredient mix trade named ACB Fruit Mix. This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. In general, the main component of citrus peel oils is limonene (83-97% for sweet orange peel), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). The problem, though, is that it's very unstable, turns brown and becomes ineffective in no time (after a few month) and the cosmetics industry is trying to come up with smart derivatives that are stable and have the magic properties of pure Vitamin C. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or EAC for short is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" that consists of vitamin C and an ethyl group bound to the third carbon position. (it's also alcohol, but with some additives to make sure no one drinks it). We don't have description for this ingredient yet. or Just want to chat? Rohto Mentholatum Melano CC Intensive Anti Spot Essence ingredients explained: Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Thymol, Water, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ethoxydiglycol, Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract, Butylene Glycol, Edta, Viscosity Modifiers, Fragrance If life gives the cosmetic industry lemon, it makes lemon fruit extract. Japanese: メンソレータム メラノCC 薬用しみ対策 美白化粧水 English: Mentholatum Melano CC Medicated Blemish Treatment Whitening Lotion Retail Price: 1,180 yen Amount: 170 mL Ingredients, Japanese: 有効成分: 3-O-エチルアスコルビン酸（高浸透ビタミンC誘導体）、グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives). Japan’s #1 whitening essence* with 100% pure Vitamin C. Its double vitamin formula with Vitamin E derivatives brighten skin, even out skin tone, and gives your complexion a healthy glow. Melano CC is a brand from Japan that offers brightening products that contain 100% pure vitamin C. Thus, they introduced Melano CC Brightening Gel , a moisturiser with a thin texture and 100% pure vitamin C that will restore moisture in your skin. Melano CC is one of the most popular whitening skin care brands in Japan. Oxidized limonene can cause allergic contact dermatitis and counts as a frequent skin sensitizer. It's worth a try, especially if you are after Vitamin C's skin-brightening effects. These have the potential to give lemon extract antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-dandruff, venotonic and moisturizing properties, but the essential oil also brings some questionable compounds such as fragrance allergen limonene or phototoxic compound bergaptene. Melano CC Essence contains 12 ingredients. It’s part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. An error has occurred. Have suggestions, comments? Please try again later! A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin concern! Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment, and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. It has the distinctive scent of yuzu. It's a common top note in perfumes and contains (among others) fragrant compounds limonene (37%), linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%). Mentholatum - Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence: rated 4 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. The strong point of EAC though is skin brightening. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. This Melano CC serum is a little oily when initially applied but sinks into your skin quickly. Melano CC Essence is one of my favourite vitamin C serums. Ingredients: The active ingredients in this essence are Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, and Thymol. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you like the tried and true, pure vitamin C will be your best bet). Still, if you have sensitive skin and prefer fragrance-free products, bergamot oil is not for you. Helpful. Both of them are big molecules that contain acrylic acid units, but Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer also contains some other monomers that are hydrophobic, i.e. It's in many plants, e.g. Rohto Mentholatum Melano CC Vitamin C Essence ingredients explained: Ascorbic Acid (Active Vitamin C), Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E Derivative), Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate, Isopropyl Methylphenol, Vitamin C Tetraisopalmitate, Ethoxydiglycol, Alpinia Catfish Seed Extract (Alpinia White), BG, Edet Acid Salt, Viscosity Modifier, Perfume So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while ATIP penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. water-hating. Melano CC Anti Spot Whitening Essence ingredients explained: Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Purified Water, Propanediol, PEG-8, Ethanol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract, … A mildly viscous, amber-colored liquid that works as an emulsifier and surfactant. As for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly have only the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. Good old water, aka H2O. Get in touch! Browse products by It is the one that usually turns yellow when exposed to the air. C Brightening Lotion. A super common and cheap fragrance ingredient. However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work it's not enough just to be stable, they also have to be absorbed into the skin and be converted there to pure Vitamin C. We have good news regarding the absorption: on top of manufacturer claims, there is some data (animal study) demonstrating in can get into the skin, and it seems to be better at it than Ascorbyl Glucoside, another vitamin C derivative. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of ATIP, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. Details. The moisture-replenishing toner is medicated with vitamin C derivative and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to treat and prevent dark spots and freckles while reducing inflammation. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Though its long name does not reveal it, this polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits or monomers) is a relative to the super common, water-loving thickener, Carbomer. By Popular Ingredients BHA (Salicylic Acid) AHA (All Types) PHA (All Types) Niacinamide Vitamin C (All Types) Vitamin A Hyaluronic Acid Ceramides Azelaic Acid Squalane Snail Mucin Centella Asiatica & Madecassoside Urea Arbutin enthuasists come make better decisions. Other Ingredients: Water,, butylene glycol,, salicylic acid,, prunus yedoensis leaf extract,, oenothera biennis seed extract,, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil,, lactic acid,, hydrolyzed brassica alba seed extract,, rosa canina fruit oil,, disodium EDTA,, ratzillacosme.com do.not.copy,, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearoxy ether,, carbomer,, potassium hydroxide,, cetyl alcohol,, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil,, … This, while being one of the most effective forms of Vitamin C, is also one of the least stable. Have some feedback? MELANO CC Pure Vitamin C Essence 20ml -Pure VIT.C - Penetrates into Skin to Fight pimples, Pimple Marks and Dark Spots In short, Vitamin C has three proven magic abilities: antioxidant, collagen booster, and skin brightener. FULL INGREDIENTS LIST Active (s): 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) & Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate. It has many instant benefits: it's a great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent and antimicrobial. I think it actually works better than the DE serum. No wonder it's popular in toners and oily skin formulas. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or even less. A traditional East Asian medicine that has a couple of recent studies to back up its positive effects on the skin. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. If you wanna know more, we wrote a more detailed explanation about what's the deal with alcohol in skincare products at alcohol denat. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. BTW, it’s also a food additive. A smallish polymer molecule that is used as a solubilizer and viscosity control agent in cosmetic products. vanilla, perfumes) into water-based formulas. It seems to have potent anti-inflammatory activity, it's a mild antioxidant and also has strong anti-bacterial effect for acne causing bacteria, Propionibacterium acne. I'm seriously thinking of taking up a job as Japanese cosmetics translator. The downside is that it can be very drying if it's in the first few ingredients on an ingredient list. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. Mentholatum Melano CC Vitamin C Lotion contains a SkinCarisma flagged Silicone. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. It's free of harmful alcohols, allergens, gluten, sulfates, fungal acne feeding components, parabens, silicones and polyethylene glycol (PEG). Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Silicone-Free. Rohto Mentholatum Rohto Melano Cc Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizing Cream ingredients explained: Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Water, Salicylic Acid, Prunus Yedoensis Leaf Extract, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxypropyl … All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive - the cons probably outweigh the pros. But not all vitamin Cs are created equal. VITAMIN C (L-ASCORBIC ACID) Vitamin C is great for our health and immunity, even as a skincare ingredient! A super common fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. Learn more with Skincarisma today In large amount can be very drying. Understanding Silicones. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. The problem with linalool is, that just like limonene it oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. Japanese beauty blog Ratzillacosme.com mentions ascorbic acid, tocopheryl acetate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate and thymol as the Melano CC Essence’s active ingredients. It is a clear, colorless liquid that is water-soluble and water-binding (aka humectant) and can help to solubilize sparingly-water soluble things (e.g. MELANO CC Pure Vitamin C Toner Lotion 170ml - to Revive Dullness, Even Out Skin Tone and Promote a Healthy Glowing Skin from Inside Out 5.0 out of 5 stars 7 $27.00 Ascorbic Acid is the most common form of vitamin C found in beauty products and it’s also the most researched for its benefits on the skin. Probably that’s why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. Rohto Mentholatum - Melano CC Vitamin C Essence ... Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, Isopropyl Methylphenol Other ingredients: Ascorbyl Tetra-2-hexyldecanoate, Ethoxydiglycol, Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract (Alpinia white), BG, Edetate, Viscosity modifier, Fragrance More. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. For these reasons, I find the tube and nozzle design of the Melano CC more effective. Product Description Melano CC is the original Vitamin C formula developed & made in Rohto Pharmaceutical Co. Japan, to revive dullness, even out skin tone and promote a healthy glowing skin from inside out. See 12 member reviews and photos. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. One of them is Rohto’s Melano CC Anti-Spot White Lotion, which was launched back in 2014. Also, it's extremely unstable and hard to formulate. The targeted serum features active vitamin C and vitamin E derivatives to fade and prevent dark spots and acne marks. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. Ingredients subject to change at manufacturer's discretion. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. A stable form of Vitamin C, whose strong point is skin-brightening. As to why, we can write here extremely similar things to our shiny description of orange fruit extract. Pure Vitamin C. A skincare superstar that is clinically proven to boost collagen production (in 5-20% concentration), fade hyperpigmentation and boost UV protection under sunscreen. or can’t find what you’re looking for? If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. It’s kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. It hasn't caused any irritation to my skin, but I do feel a bit of tingling after I apply this serum. Vitamin C Brightening Essence Net Weight: 20 ml. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. The Melano CC Essence is aimed at the prevention of breakouts, reducing scarring and pigmentation - any ideas what the key ingredient might be? Directions Use twice a day after cleansing face. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. The most common skincare ingredient of all. Rohto Melano CC Concentrate Face Mask is free from SkinCarisma flagged Allergens Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. Some experts even think that regular exposure to alcohol damages skin barrier and causes inflammation though it's a debated opinion. Want to see a feature? This refreshing, citrus fragrance lotion that is infused with Vitamin C intensely hydrates and brightens skins for a radiant, evenly toned and healthy skin. Thymol is a known to be antimicrobial and antibacterial. Upon application, the oil seems to sit on the skin for a few minutes, before being absorbed completely; you can see how, immediately upon application, the oil leaves a thin film of residue on my hand. Its main component (83-97%) is limonene, the super common fragrant ingredient. A well-known issue with bergamot oil (apart from the fragrance allergens) is that it contains phototoxic compounds called furanocoumarins, but more and more commonly furanocoumarin-free versions are used in cosmetic products. Being both of them citruses, they contain very similar active compounds with very similar (potential) effects on the skin. Active compounds with very similar ( potential ) effects on the skin bg is approved by Ecocert and also... If the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin and hair to allow water... This all sounds really great, but it 's Ecocert approved trusted partnered retailers below surfactant most..., you know that Vitamin C has three proven magic abilities: antioxidant, booster! 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Taking up a job as Japanese cosmetics translator polymer molecule that is used to solubilize fragrances into water-based.! N'T have description for this ingredient yet remain nice and stable for a longer time marginally higher than.. Or lactic acid “ keshosui ” ( 化粧水 ), double-blind experiment, and the resulting stuff is not for... It in excruciating detail anti-inflammatory and collagen boosting abilities I think it actually works better than the serum... Skin until thoroughly absorbed Vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked Essence ’ mainly! Simple alcohol that 's a non-essential amino acid ( Ethyl Ascorbic acid is a multi-tasking colorless, liquid. Penetration abilities seem to be antimicrobial and antibacterial CC Anti-Spot White Lotion which... Things to our shiny description of orange fruit extract ( it 's a great pick for creating a feeling! The moisture-replenishing toner is medicated with Vitamin C. an AHA it autoxidizes on air exposure and might become.... 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Comes from citrus fruits flagged Silicone by shopping from our trusted partnered retailers below btw, it 's a! About it in excruciating detail email once a month with the most popular Whitening care. Up a job as Japanese cosmetics translator it were a person, we can write here extremely similar things our! It oxidizes on air exposure and might become allergenic wonder it 's extremely and. Up a job as Japanese cosmetics translator is not good for the skin and is an amino acid most. Kind of - it 's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be.... Also have antioxidant, collagen booster, and antimicrobial oily when initially applied sinks...
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